|
| |
|
SADDLE CARE
Winter is always a good time to go
through your tack to see what needs repair and do a good,
thorough cleaning. Here are some thoughts:
Storage and Handling
Proper saddle care starts with how you care for your saddle when
its not in use. This part of the saddle care equation is often
given a lot less attention than the cleaning and conditioning
part. This is a mistake. Mishandling your saddle can cause a lot
more damage than simply missing a conditioning session or two.
Moisture Control
Store your saddle in a dry place that's out of the sun.
Excessive moisture can cause the leather to stretch. Too much
heat and sun dry out the leather which can cause brittleness and
cracking.
Saddle Stands
Store your saddle on a saddle stand. A variety of commercial
stands are available in wood or aluminum, and handy people can
build their own. The stand should be tall enough so that the
stirrups don't touch the ground which can cause the fenders to
bend out of shape. In addition, the top should be wide enough to
give the saddle the support it needs. If the saddle is stored on
a saddle rack that is too thin or on a narrow fence post, the
saddle may begin to curl and lose its shape. Make sure the
skirts aren't twisted and that all of the saddle strings and
straps are hanging down. While it's best never to lay your
saddle on the ground, there are times when it's necessary. In
these situations, the best options are to either lay your saddle
on its side with the fenders and stirrups lying smoothly, or
fork down on its nose. You would not want to leave your saddle
for very long in either of these positions as they can cause the
leather to bend out of position.
Saddle Covers
You saddle should always be covered when storing it
to keep off dust, critters, water, and other undesirables. There
are many commercial saddle covers available, but a sheet,
blanket or even newspapers are good solutions for a tight
budget. Don't use plastic (including the commercial plastic
covers) to cover your saddle as plastic holds in moisture and
can cause mildew.
If you travel
with your saddle, consider investing in a saddle carrier and
a saddle pad carrier. Travel can really beat up your gear.
Padded carriers can go a long way toward keeping your tack
protected and from bumps and scuffs.
Turned Stirrups
Most custom saddles are crafted with "pre-twisted" stirrups
already in the proper position for riding. Most manufactured
saddles require some additional attention. A good time to
"train" your stirrups is while the saddle is stored on its
stand. Twist both fenders to the outside and slide a
broomstick or 2x4 through both stirrups. Over time, this
will turn your stirrups in the proper position and make your
hours in the saddle much more enjoyable.
Saddles are designed to handle a lot
of rugged use, however, abusing your saddle or improper
care can shorten its life. You'll be rewarded for proper
saddle care and handling and for practicing a regular
program of saddle cleaning and conditioning. With proper
care, a saddle can last a lifetime.
What's proper care? A regular
cleaning and conditioning program, combined with good saddle
storage and handling practices. The heavier the use your
saddle receives, the more often it should be cleaned and
conditioned. While leather is a durable material, it needs
regular care to stay supple and strong. Dirt, sweat, and
lack of moisture are enemies of leather that cause cracking
and hardening.
Synthetic saddles also require regular
cleaning. While one of the supposed major advantages of
synthetic saddles is that they're easy to clean, we find
that to not always be the case. The better quality the
saddle, the easier it will be to clean. Some synthetic
saddles just don't seem to bounce back very well from lots
of dirt and lots of cleaning.
A saddle used daily should be cleaned
and conditioned every two to three months. If the saddle is
used only once a week or so, two to three cleanings a year
would be sufficient. The one thing to keep in mind is that
the more frequently you do this job, the less of a chore it
will be. You just need to incorporate saddle care into your
regular horse activities.
Steps for Cleaning A Leather Saddle:
Place your saddle on a saddle stand.
Remove the stirrups, breast collar, cinches, and any other
attachments.
Wipe off all dust and dirt with a dry cloth.
A glycerin bar, glycerin gel or yellow paste saddle soap should be
used as a cleaning agent.
Create a thick lather using a sponge with the soap and water. Try to
use as little water as possible.
Wash the entire saddle and all leather attachments, methodically
working each section. Clean BOTH sides of the leather. Give extra
attention to the areas that come in contact with the horse - the
backside of the fenders, stirrup leathers, and cinch straps.
With rough out leather, which is where the flesh side of the leather
faces out, you'll need to use a stiff brush to bring up the nap of
the grain.
A small, soft brush can help get dirt out of tooling and tight
areas.
Rinse off all of the soap with warm water and a sponge or rag. Don't
use an excessive amount of water, but make sure you get all of the
soap residue off of the saddle.
Allow the saddle to dry. Do not leave it in the sun or near direct
heat.
Steps For Cleaning A Synthetic Saddle:
Take a stiff, dry brush to the saddle, removing any crud - hair,
dirt, sweat, cobwebs, etc. Get into all of the nooks and crannies.
Wipe off loosened crud.
With a softer brush and a mild soap or synthetic saddle cleaner,
scrub the saddle all over.
Rinse the entire saddle with clean water. If your saddle has any
leather parts, make sure that you don't soak the leather. Clean and
condition the leather parts according to the instructions on this
page for leather.
Synthetic saddles do not require any further
conditioning.
Steps for Conditioning A Leather Saddle:
After cleaning the saddle as outlined above, you'll want to
condition your saddle with either an oil or a conditioning
cream. We recommend applying oil only once or twice a year and
using a conditioning cream in between. Never apply oil to a
dirty saddle.
With oil, apply a light, even coat of
neatsfoot oil with a soft rag to the grain (smooth) side of the
saddle and the leather attachments. Do not oil the flesh side
our rough out (where the flesh side faces out.) The flesh side
will absorb too much oil and weaken the leather. Make sure you
use 100% pure neatsfoot oil and not a synthetic. If the oil is
applied unevenly it can cause spotting. Also, too much oil can
attract dirt and make the leather too soft, causing it to lose
some of its strength.
With a leather conditioning cream,
apply a light (as with oil, a little goes a long way), even
coat and really work the cream into the leather and all of
the nooks and crannies.
Let the saddle sit for an hour to soak
in the oil or conditioner, then wipe any excess off with a
dry, soft cloth and buff.
Do not apply any oil to rawhide
covered pieces such as stirrups, horns, and cantle
bindings, as the oil will soften the rawhide. Use a
rawhide cream to clean, soften, and preserve the
rawhide.
You can apply a finishing coat of saddle butter or
leather wax dressing.
Between cleanings, use a clean, slightly damp soft cloth
to wipe off dirt and grime.
|
|
